Christmas 1970 – In Moscow and Hanoi
“This is my song, O God of all the nations,
a song of peace for lands a-far and
mine.
This is my home, the country where my
heart is;
here are my hopes, my dreams, my holy
shrine;
but other hearts in other lands are
beating,
with hopes and dreams as true and high
as mine.”
(Text: Lloyd
Stone Music: Jean Sibelius)
At a
time when there is much concern and debate about Russia’s role in the world and
about the United States ending our almost fifty year ‘war’ with Cuba, this trip
I made in 1970 reminds me how, in Rick Steves’ phrase, travel as a “political
act” can help us shed the hubris of American exceptionalism, and see and feel
events from other peoples’ points of view.
In Fall 1970, my then wife, Trudi, and I were asked by
the Committee of Liaison with Servicemen
Detained in North Vietnam (COL) to travel to Hanoi at Christmas time to carry
mail between their families and American POWs. Our travel companion was Ann
Bennett, a leader in Church Women United. The itinerary would take us from New
York to Moscow, to Vientiane Laos, and from there to Hanoi. The COL was
organized by Cora Weiss and other U.S. peace movement leaders to perform a humanitarian
service that the Red Cross might have performed, except that our government
refused to recognize the Hanoi government.
Gathered with our families on Thanksgiving, Trudi’s parents and mine
expressed fears about us visiting Hanoi and fears about possible government
prosecution when we returned. In part because other small COL delegations had
preceded us in making this trip and because by this time a majority of
Americans opposed the war, we felt confident, not fearful about going.
On our first night in Moscow, we enjoyed festival like
live music and cuisine at Aragvi, a very popular Georgian restaurant. During
the day, we had meetings with representatives of the government-sponsored
Soviet Peace Committee, and we became aware that other Russians apparently at all
times were “keeping tabs on us.” On our second night, we went to the yellow parliament
building inside the Kremlin’s walls to attend a fabulous Bolshoi ballet
performance of Don Quixote. Even in this brief visit and despite the thick fog
effects of Cold War conflicts, it was possible to experience Russian popular
pride and love for their country, a country that suffered a staggering
11,000,000 soldiers and estimated 20,000, 000 civilians killed in World War II,
as well as 75% of Russian industry destroyed. The next day, we rose early in
the morning for the 4,200 mile flight from Moscow to Vientiane; and there,
pretty exhausted, we boarded a second smaller plane for the hour long flight to
Hanoi.
We were greeted at
the Hanoi airport by representatives of the Vietnam Peace Committee, a
semi-official government organization and partner with COL in the mail
exchange. We stayed at the Hoa Binh (Peace) Hotel. Our hosts asked us about
traditional American customs for celebrating Christmas. When we returned from a
day trip on Christmas Eve, we discovered that hotel staff had decorated the
dining room with pine branches, lighted candles, and a small pine tree. For
dinner the waiters proudly brought out a roasted turkey, with its head still on
and a carrot curl in its beak. After showing us the Christmas bird, they
returned it to the kitchen from where it soon reemerged chopped up in a
familiar Vietnamese-style stir fry.
Our hosts took us to
see some of the devastation caused by B-52 bombing and to meet several badly
burned and broken civilian victims. We visited a museum where we saw displays
of anti-personnel bombs and bomblets, tens of thousands of tons of which were dropped
by our country on Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Having seeded the earth with
these weapons, unexploded anti-personnel bombs would continue to kill and maim
civilians, especially children, long after the war was over.
During unscheduled
time one afternoon, Trudi and I walked freely in the center of Hanoi around the
Lake of the Returning Sword and visited the One-Pole Pagoda. We were struck by
how friendly Vietnamese seemed, even when they learned we were Americans. We
were told that this partly reflected Vietnamese Buddhist culture, but also Ho Chi
Minh’s teachings. During decades of foreign occupation by the French and
Japanese, Ho Chi Minh urged Vietnamese to resist, including by violence, but Ho
also taught when foreigners don’t pose any threat, hatred and vengeance are
ineffectual and wasteful attitudes. While this does seem to have been Ho’s
philosophy, it is a matter of record that American prisoners of war at times
suffered harsh treatment and that some prisoners, including John McCain, were
tortured. In 1995, Senator McCain joined with Senator Kerry, who had testified against
the war in 1971, to support President Clinton’s decision to normalize relations
with Vietnam.
One of the high
points of our visit to Hanoi was an hour-long meeting with Pham Van Dong, a
close associate and friend of Ho Chi Minh. Having grown up in Quang Ngai
Province, which became part of South Vietnam after the country was divided, Dong
joined the resistance as a young man and was jailed by the French for seven
years. Following Vietnamese defeat of the French at Dien Bien Phu in 1954, Ho
Chi Minh named Dong Prime Minister. After the American war ended, Dong served
as Prime Minister of united, independent Vietnam from 1976 to 1987. Interviewing
Pham Van Dong provided Ann, Trudi and me personal experience of Vietnamese determination
and confidence that they would succeed finally in freeing Vietnam from control
by any foreign power, including the United States. This reinforced our views that the American
war in Vietnam was not only morally wrong, but utterly unwinnable.
On our fourth day in
Hanoi we were taken to meet a few of the American POWs. Our main purpose was to
bring loving greetings from their families, to let the men know that people
back home were praying for them, and that we were working to end the war, so that
they could come home. Illogically, the Nixon Administration often spoke as if
the U.S. was continuing the war to bring home American prisoners. Appreciating
the sensitivity of our meeting, including possible propaganda value to North
Vietnam, our government’s opposition to our mission, the intense U.S. media
focus on POW/MIAs, and the likelihood our meeting would be monitored, we didn’t
ask the men how they were being treated, but instead simply asked each man to
tell us how he was captured.
One of the prisoners
we met was a fighter bomber pilot who had flown several missions from an
aircraft carrier in the China Sea. He told us that he had never been in Vietnam
and never met a Vietnamese before his plane was shot down and he was captured. “Until
my plane was hit and I parachuted down,” he told us, “the war wasn’t real; it
was more like a very dangerous arcade video game.” He told us that he broke his
ankle when he landed in a field. Local villagers surrounded him and began to
argue loudly about what to do with him. After several minutes, they roughly
bandaged his ankle with cloth strips and carried him some distance through fields
and then down into a deep bunker. He told us, “Very soon after we were underground,
there were thunder-like booms and the earth shook violently. I knew that these
were bombs being dropped by our B-52s.” He confessed convincingly, “You know,
until that day, I never experienced a B-52 raid from the ground. I wouldn’t
want—and I wouldn’t want anyone else—to experience that ever again.”
Our route home to New York took us to Bangkok,
then across the Pacific with a brief stopover in Seattle, where as soon as we
landed, immigration authorities and armed police boarded the plane and ordered
us to come with them and to bring the bag containing the hundreds of letters we
were carrying for families of the POWs. We were led into a small room where the
authorities threatened us with legal penalties and demanded that we give them
the mail. I realized then why small, sixty-six year old Ann Bennett had
insisted that she carry the bag. Ann
held it tightly against her chest and said, “We are carrying this mail for
American servicemen who are prisoners of war and we promised them that we would
send it to their families. You will have to beat me to take this bag of mail.”
The authorities recognized they had met their match. They let us go; we
re-boarded our plane and continued our flight home. On our arrival at Kennedy
Airport, leaders of the Committee of Liaison greeted us and we held a press
conference. The very next day, the letters were placed in new envelopes with
stamps and mailed to all the prisoners’ families as promised.
It was good, even as we continued to protest and resist
the American war, to have had this experience of acting in solidarity with the
American men and families of the men who were fighting it.
* * *
“Whatever may be noble
and heroic in war is found in us, and
whatever is evil and horrific in war is
also found in us.”
“All wars are fought
twice, the first time on the battlefield,
the second time in memory.”
From Nothing Ever Dies by Viet Thanh Nguyen,
Author of the 2016 Pulitzer
Prize winning novel, The Sympathizer
Order
Ron Young’s memoir, Crossing Boundaries
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